Raking: It’s exfoliation for your lawn!

April 14th, 2011

Did you take advantage of the beautiful day we had last Sunday? I sure did – and I’ve got the blister on my thumb to prove it.

I sectioned off my backyard (it’s a double lot), got out my rakes and got busy raking. I remember my mom spending a lot of time in the early spring but I never really thought about why until recently.  On WZZM TV 13’s Green Thumb segment a couple weeks ago, Rick talked about raking to help clean up as well as wake up your lawn. Raking allows more air and sun to get to the crown of the plant.

That makes perfect sense to me. Think about it. There are tons of commercials on the air touting the benefits of exfoliating your skin to remove old skin cells, impurities, blah-blah. And some of them actually work. Raking is kind of like your lawn’s equivalent to exfoliating. It picks twigs and unburied litter, leaves and grass clippings that did decompose over the winter, roughs up the soil a little. It certainly can’t hurt – plus it’s great exercise.

A few things I would give the “heads up” on if you rake now. The section of the yard I raked looks a bit “browner” than the rest of the yard. The same thing happened in the front yard when I raked last week. Not to worry, though. The raking pulled up the blades that got matted down by leaves, snow and good old time. With a little sun, some warmer temps (to heat the ground), some rain and even some gypsum pellets (it provides better nutrient uptake especially nitrogen), it will green back up.

Another thing is gloves – wear them if you have a big area to rake and/or your hands sweat. I can show you my dried up blister if you don’t see the value. I raked for about an hour sans gloves and ended up with a nice blister right where the rake handle hit my thumb. I pulled out my old, ripped up gloves for the remainder of my raking. They helped but I definitely need new ones. Fortunately, Flowerland has some really cute, colorful ones and I have a lot more lawn to rake.

Finally, if you haven’t put your crab grass killer down, I’d rake first. You don’t have to but it makes more sense in my mind.  The crab grass killer can get closer to the soil so when you water it, it can sink in better. On a related note, be sure you put your crab grass killer either right before it rains or right before you plan to water. Otherwise, it loses its effectiveness to create that preventive barrier the longer it sits on top of the soil.

I’m looking forward to a nice, soft green lawn I can run my toes through like my mom’s lawn when I was growing up.  Let me know what you are doing to get your lawn ready for a great spring and summer.

Talk to you soon!

~Mary Gold

Starting from seeds

March 9th, 2011

If you haven’t checked it out, myflowerland.com has selection of Care Sheets under the “Information” tab that cover a variety of topics from gardening problems to perennials to trees and shrubs. They are easy to understand and packed with helpful information.

Since many people are starting their annual plantings from seed, I thought I’d look at the Care Sheet on Seed Starting.  Most seed packets tell you to plant your seeds 4 – 6 weeks out from the date of the last frost so they will be ready to transplant at the correct time. The sheet suggests using Memorial Day as the “last frost date.”

So what would I need to start my flower or vegetable plants from seed? Well, the care sheet tells me I need peat pots or flats, a humidity dome to protect against temperature fluctuations, a fluorescent light to provide steady even light that will not burn seedlings, a heat mat to keep soil temps between 65‐75 degrees  for increased germination rates, a drip tray to collect water and to water plants from the bottom, seed starting soil or pre-filled soil flats (use sterilized soil with pre‐mixed perlite and vermiculite and not garden or potting soil), and fertilizer because seed starting soil has no nutrients.

In addition to the above “hardware,” I also need seeds. While most seed packets will tell you when to plant them, the Care Sheet lists what weeks specific seeds should be planted to maximize success. For example, by this Sunday (March 13) you should have your celeriac (aka celery root, knob celery and turnip-rooted celery), lemongrass, impatiens and petunias planted. March 20 is the deadline for starting broccoli, cabbage, asters and phlox. Sweet peppers, tomatoes, sage, thyme and Morning Glory should be started between March 21 and 27.

It also has tips on thinning plants, watering, light and getting plants ready for outside. To check out this great resource as well as the other Care Sheets, go to http://www.myflowerland.com/caresheets.

Happy planting!

Fly By Butterfly

February 16th, 2011

This week while visiting Meijer Gardens I stopped by the “Butterfly Bungalow,” which is now up in anticipation of their upcoming “Butterflies are Blooming” exhibition. There were a number of chrysalises hanging already and my daughter and I got to witness two butterflies emerge from their chrysalises. I thought it was really cool and it got me thinking. Butterflies are so neat to have around the garden. What does it take to attract them?

According to Butterfly and Moths of North America, 115 different species of butterfly and/or moth species have been sighted in Kent County. That’s a lot of butterflies. And each species is attracted to specific plants. Based on that, many people like to grow Butterfly Gardens.

Aster

I started one two summers ago quite by accident.  I was looking to expand my garden with a couple of perennials and someone suggested planting a

couple of asters. They produced beautiful purple bloom in the fall and, low and behold, I noticed a few butterflies hanging around. Asters are considered native to Michigan which, according to the North American Butterfly Association, is ideal for attracting native butterflies.  They also suggest that more butterfly-attracting plants in pairs are one of the best ways to bring in the butterflies.

Purple Coneflower

Butterflies are attracted to plants for a couple of reasons. First, they look for plants with nectar they can feed on.  In addition to asters, a couple of suggested plants I’m looking at adding are the Black-eyed Susan and the Purple Coneflower. Black-eyed Susan blooms from about June through September and looks kind of like a daisy, with a dark center and bright yellow petals. Plus they are supposed to be fairly easy to grow.  Purple Coneflower is very similar in appearance to the Black-eyed Susan. They have dark, almost burgundy-orange center with lavender petals. A friend tells me they, too, are fairly easy to grow.

Butterflies also like to lay their eggs on specific types of plants. The life cycle of a butterfly actually occurs in four stages. First the butterfly lays eggs on some leaves. In the second stage a caterpillar emerges from the egg and begins to eat the plant leaves. The caterpillar will continue to eat (apparently almost constantly) until it is full-grown and ready to form itself into a chrysalis (aka Stage 3). Stage four is the metamorphosis and emergence of the butterfly. If you are interested in providing a breeding ground for butterflies, some caterpillar-friendly plants include Butterfly Milkweed, dill, curled parsley, plantain and violets (make sure to pick a species that isn’t invasive; you don’t want viola taking over your garden and creeping into your lawn).

Some fun facts about butterflies:

  • There are about 24,000 species of butterflies.
  • Monarch butterflies journey from the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico, a distance of about 2,000 miles, and return to the north again in the spring.
  • The top butterfly flight speed is 12 miles per hour.
  • Butterflies cannot fly if their body temperature is less than 86 degrees.
  • Many butterflies can taste with their feet to find out whether the leaf they sit on is good to lay eggs on to be their caterpillars’ food or not.