Pest number one:

Mealybugs

Mealybugs are a common problem on houseplants. There are easily visible the naked eye. Mealybugs are leaf suckers that can cause new growth damage and introduce systemic damage to the plant. Bad infestations can cause leaf drop and distorted growth.

This hibiscus plant has been infected with mealybugs. Note the leaf distortion and curling.

Mealybugs have soft white bodies and are usually clustered at the base of leaves (axils) and on the underside of laves along the veins. Mealybugs eggs sacks often look like small tufts of cotton as they have been encased in a cottony wax.

From a distance mealybugs look like mold or white spots, further inspection shows individual insects with cottony wax around them.

Pest number 2:

Spider mites

Spider mites can be deadly to houseplants. Thy are very tricky because they are so hard to see. Colonies can seemingly appear over-night, but in fact they have been there for many weeks, even months.  This is another reason why its important to keep your houseplants clean; so you can see tiny indicators such as webbing given off by the spider mite.

Note the webbing on this plant caused by spider mites. turn leaves over and check for small insects and small brown spots on leaves. If you notice this treat immediately.

Spider mites can be hard to control simply because once they are spotted, they generally have taken over a plant. Spider mites are leaf suckers, that penetrate the outer cell layers on branch tips and leaf axils.

Spider mites are very common outdoors on Roses, Burning bushes, and Alberta spruce. They can be distinguished by leaf wilt, leaf loss, and browning and loss of needles.

Note the browing on this Alberta spruce. It has been caused by spider mites and needs immediate treatment.

Pest number 3:

Whitefly

Whiteflies in our northern area are restricted inside to houseplants, but can be introduced seasonally outside in warmer temps. Whiteflies have a six stage life cycle. The three stages that are most damaging are the instar phases when the insect is a leaf-sucker that rarely moves from its feeding position. It is hard to see the nymphs in this stage because they are almost transparent. Key indicators that you have whitefly are the adults. They can most commonly be seen when you move a plant, and when you water. Their bright white color is easy to spot.

Note the nymphs (clear bodied) and adult white fly. Nymphs cause the plant damage in the life cycle of the whitefly.

Heavy infestation can cause stunting, yellowing of foliage, and leaf drop.

Pest number 4:

Aphids

Aphids are an extremely common problem on Hibiscus, Bougainvillea and  Mandevilla vines. In an infested plant  you can commonly see aphids removing sap from new tender growth. This includes leaves and flower buds. If left untreated, aphids can causing leaf distortion and bud loss.

Aphid damage can range from leaf distortion to bud and leaf loss, and can eventually kill a plant if left untreated.

Outside, aphids are spending the winter on a mustard family plant (the only northern host plant for this cycle) as an egg. In the late spring they will move to their host plants and continue the cycle reproducing in September and October. There are over 47 spp of aphids that produce overwintering eggs in North America and 13 that produce eggs through the season.

Aphids can be identified by the two "prongs" on their abdomen. They tend to feed in large groups underneath leafs, on flowers and on tender stems.

Pest number 5:

Scale (soft and armored)

There are many types of scale that affects all forms of plants from pine trees to cactus. I am going to give some blanket information on two of those forms most likely found on houseplants.

Soft scale are the largest family of scale insects with around 1000 spp. Most are oval in form and have a raised, swollen center when housing eggs and crawlers. you can spot adults along leaves, leaf veins, and up and along stems where they feed on sap. They are mostly immobile in late adult stages, but young crawlers can move about easily. Adult scale can produce up to several hundred eggs. Common soft-scale on houseplants are the Hemispherical scale. Its host plants include ficus and schefflera plants.

The brown soft scale is a spp most commonly seen on houseplants.

Armored scales secrete a hard waxy cover. Most are oval, but in many spp that don’t feed on houseplants, they can be oyster and spiral shape. this covering is called a test which protects the abdomen of the insect and eggs. The actual insect is found under the test and is completely immobile after the first molt, with only its mouth-parts expanding through the cover. Common hard scale on houseplants includes the Boisduval scale, which feeds on a wide variety of tropicals but prefers orchids and palms.

This is an example of a European fruit scale that has been turned over to show its eggs.

A good indicator of scale on your houseplants is sooty mold. It is cause by the excess excretion of honeydew produced by the scale in which it feeds on. Sooty mold is not a pathogen to plants but should be cleaned with either soapy water or rubbing alcohol.

This is sooty mold on a Magnolia. Note the Magnoila scale above the leaves.

What to do when you have spotted these pests:

The first thing you should do is isolate your plants from other houseplants. Insects can move quickly from one plant to another-even if they are far away from each other. Inspect all plants for infestation, if you suspect a plant may be starting to have a problem you can treat it with systemic insecticide. Watch this plant carefully, as the problem may develop within the next few weeks.

The next step (esp with aphids and bad infestations of spider mites) is to remove the heaviest infected areas. Cut these small branches off and use Elmers glue to seal the wound. Remove parts immediately.If you can pick each insect of.  Use a kleenex to wipe and gather them, removing as many as possible.

Try knocking aphids onto a piece of tape when removing them. Don't stick tape to leaves or plant as it will surely damage it.

Clean! Clean leaves with rubbing alcohol to remove sticky residue, and any eggs. This will also further help remove any insects.

Treat! Now its time to treat your houseplants. You may want to try a few different methods. Never assume a chemical is safe for your variety of houseplants-some a very sensitive to chemicals so read labels, and ask questions.

Systemic chemicals are applied to the soil and taken into the plant though water. When an insect feeds on the plant, or lives in the soil it is exposed to the toxin.

bonide makes a systemic granule that can sucessfully treat most houseplants from common insect infestations.

Spray chemicals can be a direct and quick method and may in some cases be used in combination with a systemic granule.

Safer Houseplant insect spray is effective in treating aphids, spider mites, scale and whiteflies. Repeat treatment evry 7-10 days.

Natural alternatives include Neem oil mixed with water. Mist the plant one a week or as instructed. You may also try spraying a mild dish soap/water mixture.

Start over. If the plant is not special to you, you may just want to start over if the problem is bad. Don’t risk infecting all of your houseplants by keeping one infected plant around.

How to avoid infestation:

Do not dust your houseplants with a feather duster. This can transfer eggs and small insects from one plant to another.

Wash your houseplants. Wash leaves with luke-warm water to avoid the buildup of dust and grime. This will also help your plant achieve the highest rate of photosynthesis, keeping it strong and healthy.

Always use sterilized potting soil. That means no soil out of your garden! Do not use bags of soil that have been sitting open for long periods of time as they may have become infested.

Inspect your plants regularly. Look at both the tops and bottoms of leaves, and on the soil as you water. Early detection is key to stopping the problem.

When you bring a new plant home keep it isolated. There is nothing worse than knowing you have infected your great-grandmothers 75 year old Christmas Cactus (trust me I know). Wash the leaves with a warm-mild soapy water. After a few weeks, when you are sure there are no pests, than feel free to place it with your other plants.

Happy hunting!

Now, moles in our yard never really went away. Moles  are active during the winter. They are much less frequently noticed by us than in spring and summer because they are feeding below the frost line. So, while we are still on decent terms with them for the time being, lets take a look at these really impressive creatures.

Moles belong to the mammal family Talpidae. They are found in Europe, Asia and North America. No moles in Ireland though!

Some fun mole facts!

Moles eat and sleep at four hour intervals.

Moles are insectivores not rodents.

Moles are only social during breeding season in late winter/early spring.

Moles can push 32 times their body weight. That is equal to a 150 lb. person pushing on a car and sending it 20-30 ft.

Moles kick their young out of the “nest” in 3-5 weeks.

Young moles are practically identical looking to adults except for their size.

Moles will suffer “stress attacks” and die if exposed to the surface too long.

There are 6 spp of moles in the United States. We have 2 in Michigan-the Eastern  and Star-nose.

Eastern moles like sandy loam. They tend to live near fields, meadows and forests.

Star-nose moles like moist soils, clay and areas near water.

Volcano mounds can be left by Eastern spp as well as Star-nosed.

Star-nose moles have 22 tentacles.

The star-nosed mole is one of two species that live in Michigan. They are notorious for their volcano-type mounding habit.

Moles consume 80-100% of their body weight everyday.

Food is digested in 90 min, and all undigested foods are expelled in 4 hrs.

Moles feed from vibration and scent.

80% of a moles diet consists of worms.

Moles primarily eat earthworms. Their diet also consists of grubs, ants, and other small invertebrates in the soil.

Moles have 2x the hemoglobin of other mammals their size, allowing them to breath underground easier.

Moles dig 100 yards of tunnels per day. They can dig 15-18′ per hour. In open tunnels they can move 80′ per minute!

Moles don’t save food. If they go for more than 6hrs without food, they begin to starve.

Moles never hibernate-their metabolism is too high!

Moles can make mounds in your yard all season long...even through deep snow.

So, before we return to our turf wars, lets just take a few moments and give the mole a hand for being a really hard-working, worm-chasing,  go-getter.  After that, all bets are off. If you want, you can send your moles my way.

Daffodil bulbs are often overlooked by hungry critters.

Rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks, mice, and voles  have been known to chew a few bulbs in their day. They dig them up to munch on, or eat them right in the ground. The key is  knowing who you are dealing with; the main predators in your yard. Knowing how they eat will give you a better plan for protection. Observe your yard for signs of tunneling (small holes for mice and voles, large for moles) rabbit pellets, and of course listen for chipmunk shrills and squirrel cackles. Knowing is half the battle.

If squirrels have taken control of your car-it may be too late.

Once you have determined who you having living in your yard, take the necessary precautions. Moles, although strictly insectivores can dig access tunnels for voles and chipmunks that eat the actual bulb pulp, without ever digging up the bulb. Pre-soaking your bulbs in a liquid deterrent will help keep them at bay. Products such as Bonide Bulb Dust when used as a liquid slurry, and allowed to dry before planting, is an effective measure against these bulb eaters. It creates a natural taste and smell repellent on the bulbs. Protecting the area from grubs will help keep moles away. You can also try spreading human hair, and used kitty litter to keep mice, voles and chipmunks away.

Products such as Bonide Bulb Dust can help deter foraging by squirrels and chipmunks, as well as prevent nibbling by mice and voles.

Squirrels love bulbs. They also bury their food in the ground, so it is only natural for them to want to dig sweet-smelling bulbs up to eat. If you have bird feeders over the area where you are planting bulbs, it may be a good idea to move them as they are used to foraging for seed in that location. Some gardeners have had luck spreading blood meal, garlic, and fox urine on the surface to prevent digging. Again soaking the bulbs in a deterrent is also a good idea to help keep digging to a minimum. Squirrels are naturally very curious and will want to check out what you have been doing. After planting your bulbs you can also lay a heavy board over the area. The board will have to be removed after the ground freezes. Also make sure the bulbs can get water. Chicken wire can also be a useful tool but will have to be very securely placed, as squirrels are quite crafty and stubborn when it comes to feeding. Finally, try covering the bulbs in a few inches of sharp gravel. The gravel will poke at their sensitive feet and deter them from getting to the actual bulb. Feeding your squirrels will help keep them from heavily foraging in other locations.

Putting up owl decoys and whirligigs tend to scare squirrels away as well. Moles will stay away from whirlygig vibrations, but of course will only work if it is windy and are therefore not the best method.

Putting up owl decoys, flashing tape and ribbons will keep squirrels at bay. Be sure to move any decoys once or twice a week to keep them effective.

Rabbits are veracious bulbs eaters. They tend to nip and chew once bulbs have started to emerge. Spraying hot pepper spray as well as fencing are the best approaches. Fencing can have no more than one-inch openings, and must be at least knee-high. Make sure it is properly secured in the ground, as rabbits are good diggers. Several methods may have to be used in order to achieve effective control.

Rabbits are natural prey of the fox. They will avoid areas treated with fox urine.

Deer are also heavy bulb eaters. They tend to love the taste of sweet flower heads once they have emerged. Planting bulbs that are disliked by deer is the first method to stopping their eating. Daffodils and Allium are the most disliked. Packages of deer-resistant bulbs are also available.  Using Ivory soap shavings is an old-fashioned method to keeping deer away as they hate the smell of strong scents. Blood meal and again, human hair saved from brushes are also old-fashioned methods. A wide variety of new chemical products are extremely reliable; Liquid fence, Bonide Repels-All, and Deer Stopper to name a few.

If deer are problematic in your yard, try a collection of bulbs that are considered deer-resistant.

Trying several methods that you are most comfortable with is the best way to ensure the safety of your bulbs. Trial and error, talking with your neighbors and keeping a close eye on things will  help the process. Remember that beautiful springtime blooms after a long winter are worth the effort and can be the most rewarding season in your garden!

Good luck and Happy Gardening!